The Brief History of Charms
There is no other piece of jewellery that is able to encapsulate moments of time in a woman’s life than a charm necklace or bracelet. These prized tokens acting as souvenirs for achievements, romances, new beginnings and important moments reveal the passage of time to woman who wears her charms has taken so far. They also can mirror goals, superstitions and dreams and will tell mer of her tale as her life progresses.
Earliest Known Charms
So when did we begin wearing charms? The oldest jewellery known to man is estimated to be from 110,000 BC in Morocco, where drilled sea snail shells were discovered in an archaeological dig. These piece are thought to have been used as amulets for good luck and protection. After this other drilled bones and animal teeth were found in Czech Republic, France, Algeria, South Africa and Algeria. All of which are estimated to be from 92,000 BC to 28,000 BC.
LEFT, EGYPTIAN SCARAB TALISMAN. SOUCE: MET MUSEUM
Ancient Egypt
By 3000 BC, the wearing of charms was common in Ancient Egypt among pharaohs and the wealthy, both around the neck and on the wrist. They could even make up parts of large headpieces during this period. Ancient Egyptian jewellery designs were frequently based on scarab beetles, antelopes, jackals, tigers and birds. These animals carried deep importance across their civilisation particularly the scarab beetle. The scarab is considered to be one of the most powerful amulets depicting security, the sun, transformation and rebirth.
RIGHT: ASSORTMENT OF ANCIENT EGYPTIAN TALISMANS. SOURCE: THE BRITISH MUSEUM
Roman Empire and the Middle Ages
Within the Roman Empire at its peak in 117 CE the wearing of charms continued and many Christians would wear a small, concealed fish charm to inform other Christians that they followed the same teachings without the fear of persecution.
Throughout the Middle Ages charms continued to become increasingly popular to be used as talismans and amulets for the superstitious when witchcraft and sorcery was feared. King and knights would also bring charms into battles believing it would bring them protection. Moreover, particular charms would act as tokens for identifying a persons, family, trade and political background. Charms dwindled in popularity as soon as superstitions began to fade. To continue displaying their fortune, wealthy people in society replaced their charms with jewellery and gemstones as their access to metals and precious stones began to grow from wider global trade opening up.
left: queen victoria's charm bracelet, source: royal collection trust
Queen Victoria
The popularity of charms had reduced significantly between 1300 and 1800. However, in the late 1800s, Queen Victoria started to wear them. She was an incredibly popular monarch and was able to influence trends. She kickstarted the next charm renaissance when she began wearing her charm bracelet and this spread across Europe. A distinct change here was that instead of wearing charms for luck or protection she was wearing them purely for fashion and this began the charm industry as we know today.
RIGHT: TIFFANY & CO'S FIRST CHARM BRACELET FROM 1889. SOURCE: TIFFANY & CO
Early to Mid 20th Century
As charms had becoming increasingly popular by the end of the 19th century this led to Tiffany & Co to introduce their first charm bracelet in 1889. The timeless design consisted of a single heart charm on a bracelet which is still available today.
By the 1950’s and 60’s charm had become widespread amongst the emerging teenage culture. A charm bracelet was a common gift on an 18th birthday. These would later be added to with additional piece on important occasions such life achievements, weddings and the birth of a child. Icons across the entertainment industry at the time such as Elizabeth Taylor also brought popularity to the charm bracelet. This period solidified the story of a charm bracelet being the story of its owner becoming a heirloom passing down by each generation.
Left: late 20th century charm bracelet. source: v&a museum
End of 20th Century
Across the 1970s and 1980’s, early to mid century charm bracelets had become valuable items to collectors. People had becomes less interested in buying new charms but instead finding ones with a story and legacy. Throughout the 90’s the trend of collecting old charms continued as the internet had made finding old pieces much easier.
Present Day
As we reached 2000 we saw the popularity of the charm resurgence we see today. Huge fashion brands such as Louis Vuitton and Chanel had created their own charms, whilst also brands that focused solely on charms appeared such as Pandora. With mainstream recognition across the world the trend continues to the present as I welcome you my store Gold Charmer.